Prof. Jimmy Choo’s JCA | London Fashion Academy hosted its inaugural Undergraduate show debuting four young designers from the Design and Accessories cohort at the historic Boston Manor House campus.
This graduating cohort joined the JCA on the day it opened its doors back in September 2021 and have built their own independent brands over the past three years. The Boston Manor Campus officially opened in 2022. Each designer presented the first eight looks of their debut collections.
ALLANDRE
Andreea Pirlog’s brand ALLANDRE, is a bespoke luxury brand specialising in custom-made garments, accessories, and leather goods that blends time-honoured skills with modern aesthetics.
The debut collection integrates Japanese pattern-making with Western classic tailoring.
Fabrics are luxurious: Italian nappa leather, French couture silk organza, Chinese silk organza, duchess satin and silk, velvet, taffeta, tailoring wools and coated leather.
The Italian nappa leather was incorporated using digital prints, developed from a collage of Pirlog’s journeys, hand painted and digitally printed on fabric.
Pirlog also incorporated pleats into the designs exploring varied fabrics including leather to reveal their versatility and aesthetic appeal.
Hardware features touches of gold and Italian resin buckles.
Colour palette is black, French navy, regal purple and starlight gold.
ALLANDRE is dedicated to developing and perfecting the art of hand stitched leather, crafting garments and bags that are not only elegant and functional but also tell a story of meticulous artistry.
Andreea grew up in a Romanian family where craftsmanship was a way of life. Surrounded by rich traditions and artistry, Andreea’s collection is a celebration of those skills that have been passed down through generations but with a modern twist.
In Andreea Pirolog’s own words: “My inaugural collection is dedicated to raising awareness about mental illness and, particularly targeting individuals in the fashion industry and other fields where the relentless demands and stress of our fast-paced world can become overwhelming. It’s crucial that we remain vigilant and mindful of these challenges.”
TAYLA-LILY
Tayla-Lily is a genderless streetwear brand focusing on comfort and oversized silhouettes by Tayla Brace.
Brace’s debut collection pays homage to the Aokigahara Forest in Japan. Commonly known as the Suicide Forest, the collection centres around mental health as well as a tribute to the beauty of the forest.
Puppets are also a key theme symbolising the brokenness of humanity with the forest acting as a puppet master.
Each look in Brace’s collection has a ribbon detail included in reference to visitors traditionally tying a ribbon around a tree so they do not get lost. The eyelets in the ribbon emulate the marionette puppets where the limbs are attached with strings and eyelets. This again ties back to the puppeteering nature of the Aokigahara.
Mount Fuji is seen in the structure of several collars and sleeves as they are shaped to resemble the crater which created the Aokigahara forest.
Using the traditional Japanese ink drawing method of dipping a stick into water and ink, Brace created a hand drawn design based on the trees in the Aokigahara forest. The drawings were transformed into prints using deep reds and greens emulating the forest aesthetic. This was then printed onto the denim and silk georgette.
The print was elevated by hand painting the outline of the print using Silverleaf ink.
Tonic silk taffetas which change from red to green, blue to black and red to blue were used to symbolise the changing of the leaves in the forest and the flow between life and death.
Inside the sleeves of each piece, there is a helpline number embroidered, serving as a discreet yet powerful reminder for the wearer that help is out there.
The brand was created to explore taboo topics that are traditionally ignored in the fashion space and give them a voice through her designs.
In speaking about her collection, Tayla Brace says: “The Aokigahara Forest is shrouded in darkness but I saw the beauty in the forest itself. I resonated with the complexity of the forest and wanted to make something to honour it.”
Dr Marten’s supported the young designer with shoes for the show which were customised to incorporate materials used throughout the collection.
REELL
REELL is a menswear brand by Jazzy Newnham, honouring life’s nostalgic moments through heritage fabric, music, and fishing.
It emphasises inclusivity in sizing and sustainability through upcycling unused fishing bivvies, and a partnership with heritage fabric manufacturers, Harris Tweed.
Reell also supports men’s mental health, recognising fishing’s role in fostering emotional connections with nature and enhancing well-being.
The collection focuses on how you can style yourself in everyday life situations. Starting from the relaxed Harris Tweed tracksuit bottoms, the polished boxy polo shirt and navy nylon men’s blazer.
Fabrics are upcycled from fishing bivvies and sleeping bags, reflecting a family tradition of fishing that has fostered camaraderie and shared experiences.
The mantle/cagoule, that is innovatively crafted from upcycled fishing bivvies shows REELL’s commitment to sustainability.
The collection is sponsored by Harris Tweed, which donated heritage fabrics. The materials can be seen throughout the collection and add texture.
The relaxed tracksuit bottoms are made from donated tweed. The tweed twill shorts add a modern edge.
Jazzy Newnham comments: “Reflecting back on nostalgic memories is something that everyone can relate to. This collection means a lot to me because I have reinvented a family hobby, fishing, into the world of fashion.
“This has allowed me to share men’s mental health awareness. I hope to inspire men to feel confident in what they wear and within themselves as if it’s a contagious smile.”
DEMI O’SHEA
Demi Colton O’Shea closed the show with her brand DEMI O’SHEA, specialising in bespoke garments and unique items using 3D printing technology and ethical crafting.
The brand aims to revolutionise fashion by leveraging new materials such as plastics, fused powder, resin and metal. Through 3D printing the brand is committed to sustainability which extends to biodegradable accessories, minimising trends and reducing mass production.
Ideas came from nature, culture and timeless design, blending style with mindful design whilst drawing inspiration from mental health themes.
Fabrics used are cotton twill, neoprene and cotton satin.
Colour palette represents the emotions of mental health – blue for sadness; red for anger and white for liberty and acceptance.
The beautiful but chaotic print in achromatic grey was created based on the lack of facilities in Ireland for mental health.
The 3D handbags made from PLA filament in white, royal blue and red completed the collection.
Karen Grace studied Personal Styling at the London College of Fashion and is Eclipse Magazine’s Fashion & Beauty Editor.
You can read more of Karen’s fashion advice at: www.frumpytofunky.com
For personal shopping and styling services you can reach her via frumpy to funky on contact@frumpytofunky
