Headonism at London Fashion Week
‘Headonism’, a British Fashion Council initiative curated by Stephen Jones, celebrated the new wave of emerging British milliners by showcasing at London Fashion Week.
For SS17 the following talented milliners participated:
‘Fizzy Pop’ – a youthful effervescent collection influenced by pop art, especially the digital dotty works of Czar Catstick and the colourful fun illustrations of Merijn Hos.
Harvy describes his collection as having both a graphic and comic sensibility and lots of pompoms!
A tribute to Audrey Hepburn, the majority of the 23 handmade pieces are named after her movie character’s names:
Eliza is a candy pink and white straw boater adorned with colourful pearls in various sizes. A pretty nod to My Fair Lady Eliza Doolittle’s flower seller hat and pretty lovely for Glorious Goodwood.
Sabrina – simple pale grey beret with a baby pink stripe. Embellished with tulle, a smattering of coloured pearls and cute small pompoms. A touch of Parisian chic for the Epsom Derby
Chiquita (Aubrey’s character in The Lavender Hill Mob) – Square pillbox on dotty collage printed straw. Topped with pearls and pompoms that appear to be floating and dancing in space. Spot on for the Grand National.
Holly (Breakfast at Tiffany’s) – large straw textured coolie in silver grey with frothy tulle underneath and a large pom pin. There’s nothing Golightly about this hat – this is go flamboyant for Royal Ascot!
William Chambers is a graduate of the Headonism initiative, and now exhibits at LFW in his own standalone space.
‘Scotia Japonica’ – this SS17 collection is inspired by the house and garden of the artist Edward Atkinson Hornel in Kirkcudbright, SW Scotland.
Hornel’s garden was, like many of his paintings, inspired by his trips to Japan. In the collection you can see a hybrid of Scottish and Japanese themes occurring and flowers blossoming.
Cherry Blossom Bouquet – Along with the chrysanthemum, the cherry blossom is considered the national flower of Japan. It certainly brings joy in the springtime as it blooms and in Japan, its short lived existence symbolises the fleeting beauty of life. Cherry pick this one for the Chester May Festival.
Ostrich Pom in pale blue grey blend fun with chic. Show off your playful side at the Newmarket Guineas Festival.
T-Rose – full bloom roses in soft antique pink shades juxtapose with the prickly triangular stick frame, making a statement at any race.
‘Shade’ – SS17 collection is all about light and shade. Not simply the shadow a hat casts, but also the way light falls within a hat.
Left to right: Ombromarnie displays a pair of sheer black embroidered gloves representing the art of performing a story using images made by hand shadows. Yours or Mine?– a broken mirror with gold frame. Binary – an upright disc of black and white tulle showing the yin and yang design.
Left is the bi-toned trilby in glistening gold and sparking black representing Dawn as the sun’s glow starts to pierce the dark sky. And right is Dusk represented by a turban of shimmering veil in tints of orange, pink and grey.
The dramatic hat on the left is named Chiaroscuro after the treatment of light and shade in drawing and painting and on the right we have Angel or Devil? A different meaning to light and dark.
‘Altered Orchard’ – Fruit-inspired with golden apple silhouettes. Most of the pieces are named after types of apples.
The hat pictured left is the hero of the collection and is titled Orchard.
D’Arcy – Glistening copper wire is shaped into little golden apples on transparent brims. Named after an apple with a unique spicy flavour, you’re sure to look hot, hot, hot in this coolie.
Beacon dented sunhat – this wide brim straw hat features simple metallic band with apple silhouette. Wear and shine at Glorious Goodwood or Newmarket’s July Festival.
Brock Percher. Stand out in the crowd with the sweet but crisp Brock Percher in stylish black leather and metallic turquoise.
Ariane – Named after the modern Ariane dessert apple, the Ariane percher with metallic cone is right up to date for the Grand National or would cut a dash at the Sandown Eclipse Festival.
The Season Hats
‘Into the Fold’ – a range of foldable occasion wear, Panama straws and laser cut leather. Silhouettes are inspired by the rolling peaks of the Sperrin mountain range in Northern Ireland and each piece is named after an Irish village. Colours are drawn from the soft and subtle changing lights as grasses and crops dance in the wind and the sun begins to set.
Crecora – with leather cut out brim hand and edged in Swarovski pearls, this Panama straw hat will make the style grade for Glorious Goodwood.
Balla – An asymmetric folding disc in double faced French satin. The satin has been laser cut for intricate edge detailing and sewn together individually in a process that takes up to two days. In baby blue and light grey.
Myler – An interlocking dual colour fan upsweep. Like the Balla, the way it unfolds into a 3D form was inspired by Chinese paper folding techniques. The folding technique makes it a great piece to pack when travelling to the races.
Glynn – Be the golden girl with this folding origami gold leather beret.
Emily – Sculpted leather headpiece with hand inlaid Swarovski pearls (graded gold to ivory) and integral cut out.
Laura Apsit Livens
‘Semi Construct’ – Laura has evolved her brand through the process of deconstruction to find beauty in the fragments and parts that make the whole. SS17 celebrates design, balance and proportion.
Making waves is the Contour – navy and white striped wave structure over a small base. Behind is from left to right: Foundation – red disc with upturned rim and a mini navy and white striped wave bunting. Cambe – red fedora with wide navy ribbon, adding a pop of colour to your Glorious Goodwood outfit. On the right is Bay (see below).
Bay – Beret shaped straw base with a golden floral arrangement to the side.
Core – Navy and white saucer base elegantly perched to the side and adorned with a navy and white striped fabric flower. Adding a pop of colour and purposely offsetting the symmetry is one golden yellow petal.
Tessulla – Rich in texture with tactile red and navy felt sheets folded and curved as though loose pages in a book. The felt fabric and classic navy/ dark red combination makes this an ideal piece for the early spring races when the weather may still be cool, or autumn Flat race festivals such as the St Leger.
Ratio – Navy and white boater hat – another great piece for Glorious Goodwood or Newmarket’s July Festival.
‘Texture’ – Abstract headpieces with texture. Kinsella doesn’t opt for the traditional feminine flowers or feathers, instead prefers minimalism and clean lines.
However there is nothing minimalist in the making of her pieces as wires are moulded to create ethereal wings in flight.
Quilled caps are made from thin ribbons of plaited straw curled and arranged in clusters of oval and teardrop coils.
Colour palette is a range of pale dusky pinks and greys to the bolder blacks and off white.
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