There are straight shoulders, emphasised waists, and straight cuts. There is subtle femininity, bare flesh revealed through a low neckline, and the volume of an A-line skirt light as air.

But though there may be Fifties reminiscences or the feel of a ride to Napa Valley, the colors of a Californian season give a subtle stamp to this Paris couture, free from any hint of the vintage.

Perched on her kitten heels, Didit Hediprasetyo’s woman sinks into a mood that is sensitive and sensual rather than overtly sexy. A slender vine in a chic jumpsuit consisting of a lambskin shirt-front and trousers that come in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth of Songket (a traditional handwoven Indonesian brocade), she wraps herself in a swansdown and leather bomber jacket embroidered with leaves and vine shoots.

The luxury touch is even seen in a sporty feel – though the couture expertise has no whiff of the ordinary – where masculine fabrics give class to fitted trousers that emphasise the waist and give a slight curve to the hips through a draped pleat.

The spirit of Old Hollywood underlies draped necklines, a tailored cardigan in supple leather or, in another style, a dress in embroidered fleece covering the body in truly modest elegance. There is also the A-line of an ultra-feminine crinoline-style dress in cotton fleece, whose asymmetrical front incorporates leather, in the play on construction so dear to the couturier.

Meanwhile, the beauty of a seemingly endless dress tailored in vanilla leather, with a belt built like a corset, accentuates its modernity still further.

Then, in earth colors, straw-colored silk, cream leather and bronze wool, we find the purity of long, empire-cut mermaid dresses, whose immaculate cloth is embellished with sublime broderie anglaise, ornamental vines, bunches of grapes and delicate vine leaves created by the Lesage company – like an infinitely ‘couture’ signature.

 

 

 

Allison Graham

Allison is the Publisher of Eclipse Magazine. She loves going to the Races and is learning to bet (despite being officially the worst bettor in the History of the Universe), there's a lot more to learn...

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