There are straight shoulders, emphasised waists, and straight cuts. There is subtle femininity, bare flesh revealed through a low neckline, and the volume of an A-line skirt light as air.
But though there may be Fifties reminiscences or the feel of a ride to Napa Valley, the colors of a Californian season give a subtle stamp to this Paris couture, free from any hint of the vintage.
Perched on her kitten heels, Didit Hediprasetyo’s woman sinks into a mood that is sensitive and sensual rather than overtly sexy. A slender vine in a chic jumpsuit consisting of a lambskin shirt-front and trousers that come in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth of Songket (a traditional handwoven Indonesian brocade), she wraps herself in a swansdown and leather bomber jacket embroidered with leaves and vine shoots.
The luxury touch is even seen in a sporty feel – though the couture expertise has no whiff of the ordinary – where masculine fabrics give class to fitted trousers that emphasise the waist and give a slight curve to the hips through a draped pleat.
The spirit of Old Hollywood underlies draped necklines, a tailored cardigan in supple leather or, in another style, a dress in embroidered fleece covering the body in truly modest elegance. There is also the A-line of an ultra-feminine crinoline-style dress in cotton fleece, whose asymmetrical front incorporates leather, in the play on construction so dear to the couturier.
Meanwhile, the beauty of a seemingly endless dress tailored in vanilla leather, with a belt built like a corset, accentuates its modernity still further.
Then, in earth colors, straw-colored silk, cream leather and bronze wool, we find the purity of long, empire-cut mermaid dresses, whose immaculate cloth is embellished with sublime broderie anglaise, ornamental vines, bunches of grapes and delicate vine leaves created by the Lesage company – like an infinitely ‘couture’ signature.