Like the pea coat, the duffle coat became popular with the British Royal Navy, but this time the colour was a camel shade.

This warm three-quarter length coat was ideal for the cold with a hood, easy to fasten and unfasten wooden toggles and large patch pockets to keep your hands warm.

This coat was worn by all ranks and became famously associated with Field Marshal Montgomery which led to the coat being affectionately nicknamed the ‘Monty’.

The British firm Gloverall started off selling navy surplus duffle coats in 1951 but soon moved on to producing their own style of duffle in 1954.

The original Monty style was knee-length with wooden toggles and jute rope fastening. Gloverall still makes this original style (see main picture) plus an updated mid-length version in navy and camel.

Fabric: 90% boiled wool and 10% pa cloth. Price: £270.

However it is what is called a Gloverall duffle (right) that is the most popular style today with buffalo horn toggles instead of wood and leather fastenings instead of rope, large pockets with flaps and the check interior double-faced fabric.

Fabric: 80% wool, 20% pa. Price was £295. Available in a variety of colours. 

www.gloverall.com

Belgian menswear designer Raf Simons takes the duffle back to its roots. The name derives from the Antwerp province of Duffel where the thick woollen fabric used to make the coat originated from. The duffel coat was a key piece on his AW11 catwalk show.

Simons mixes tradition with contemporary: the camel colour is both traditional and also on trend for this season, the toggles off to the side mimic the original Monty but the double rope fastening does not stretch over the front so gives the coat a more tailored and minimalistic look. Horn toggles are partnered with a double rope fastening instead of the leather.

Mr Porter is having a sale and Raf Simon’s duffle coat is reduced by 50% from £830 to £415.

Fabric: 100% wool with 50% viscose and 50% cupro lining.

www.mrporter.com

ASOS makes the duffle coat into a jacket with its short bonded wool duffle coat. Unlike Raf Simons' simplistic style, here the white thick twisted rope cord fastening stands out prominently from the navy as a kind of embellishment giving a slight military feel to the whole look

This short style is better suited for the smaller guy. Because the toggle fastenings are prominent and stop quite high up the coat, the taller guy will just look as though he’s outgrown his duffle.

Fabric: 62% polyester, 34%wool, 3%acrylic and 1% nylon. Price £85. Seen here with chunky mittens £10, cropped trousers £32 and chukka boots £50.

All from www.asos.com

 


KAREN GRACE

Karen Grace studied Personal Styling at the London College of Fashion and is a registered affiliate member of the Federation of Image Professionals International. You can read more of Karen's fashion advice at:

For personal shopping and styling services you can reach her via frumpy to funky on contact@frumpytofunky.com and 07787 800 390.

 

Allison Graham

Allison is the Publisher of Eclipse Magazine. She loves going to the Races and is learning to bet (despite being officially the worst bettor in the History of the Universe), there's a lot more to learn...

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