Author: Karen Grace

London Fashion Week: Spring/Summer 2014 – Omar Mansoor

  For his SS14 collection, Omar Mansoor was inspired by the Golden Age of the Opera and David Belasco’s theatrical adaptation of the short story of Madame Butterfly acted on stage in the 1900s   This season he chooses a colour palette of Royal blue and black. The bold Royal blue depicts the happy days when Madame Butterfly and the American naval officer were together and in love. The black represents the sadness she feels when her love leaves Japan and marries back home. In the past Mansoor has focused all his design talents on eveningwear, but for this...

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London Collections: Men – Spring/Summer 2014

MAN SHOW was created by Topman and Fashion East to help a selection of emerging fashion designers showcase their designs on the catwalk.   For SS14 the three new designers are Bobby Abley, Alan Taylor and Craig Green. Bobby Abley First on the runway were Bobby Abley’s fairytale model princes wearing leather cut outs of crowns. ( Abley’s own signature design of the Teddy Bear silhouette was incorporated on to tops…  … and hidden in between the regal Fleur de Lys.  Disney Snow White’s blue bird fluttered around as tattoos on the models faces, necks, arms and knees as...

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Henry Poole & Co. Founder of Savile Row

An exhibition to celebrate the craft of bespoke tailoring by Savile Row family, Henry Poole & Co. is on show at The Bowes Museum. Established in 1806, they launched Savile Row, now the most famous tailoring street in the world. Their famous clientele included Emperor Napoleon III and Winston Churchill and they have held the Royal Warrant for state livery since Queen Victoria. The company is also famous for creating the short dinner jacket which became known as the tuxedo. Henry Poole & Co. Founder of Savile Row – The Art of Bespoke Tailoring and Wool Cloth is on exhibition...

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LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN Spring/Summer 2014 Go West Young Man!

Two SS14 collections stood out for their Wild Wild West theme but both taking different Western trails.   HENTSCH MAN Going for the drifter/road trip cowboy look you could image the Hentsch Man hanging out in a bar in the middle of the desert somewhere near the Mexican border. Titled ‘We Meet by Accident’, this collection is definitely no accident and this drifter has a sense of style with a capsule wardrobe ranging from shorts, tees and blazers to suits and ties.   He’s brave with his prints of Ikat, city sketches and bold stripes as well as the...

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LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN Christopher Raeburn Spring/Summer 2014

Christopher Raeburn is renowned for breathing life back into surplus military fabrics by creating new modern clothing. For his SS14 collection he also turned to the military for inspiration. (Main picture) Titled ‘Sandstorm’, Raeburn looked at the desert uniforms and camouflage colours of the Long Range Desert Group, a British Army reconnaissance and raiding unit in North Africa during WWII. Surplus military fabrics used included a camouflage bivouac sheet made from 1950s original rubberised cotton. Here shown on a Field jacket with draw cord waist and the sleeves of a bomber jacket. Camouflage print army mesh lines and peeps through the lightweight sand-coloured parachute jacket. Whist a diaphanous camouflage print covers mint-coloured army mesh to create a double layered boxy t-shirt. Blending old and new, Raeburn also used the high Tec Schoeller fabric – a four-way stretch material which offers thermal insulation but is also lightweight, soft and highly breathable. The design of the print is a stark interpretation of satellite desert imagery. As a Cool Wool regulating the body temperature by releasing excess heat through its fibres Raeburn chose Merino wool for the softer side to his summer collection.   Main colour palette is neutral shades of sand and khaki with accents of dusky blues and pinks.   The pinks represent the colour once used on the unit’s Land Rovers and reveal how broad the colour palette had...

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